After hours of fighting with the download process, I read the fine print. The "Garmin Express" software does not work well with satellite or Mifi internet connections. If you don't have city-style Internet, this is not the product for you. (Unless you want to take your laptop to town to update your Garmin.) Off to try to get a refund.
(Ps: earlier Garmin software has worked fine for me out here for the last 5 years. Should never have bought the new product and downloaded Garmin Express.)