Right pedal disconnecting - true reason found.

I think you have just hit the nail spot on. This is a really good observation and the video explains it very good.

This also explains why some have more severe issues than others, since it's a matter of assembly quality.

Once manufacturing gets in control of that, things should get better.

One side note here; funny some are experiencing less problems with beta 3.44...? How come this, if it's primarily a hardware issue? Could it be some more filtering of data?

Sorry that you have this problem. Please contact Garmin Support as you will need a replacement pedal body.

This issue has been noted in earlier threads and is one of the things we have asked people who are having data connection issues to check.

Your video points out something very important that I think you may be missing (or perhaps not). In another thread, I pointed out a fundamental mechanical problem with the pedal design; that is that the battery holder has to remain fixed to the pedal spindle while the entire plastic pedal, including the metal end cap, spins around it. If you'd rather think about it the other way round, the pedal is fixed in orientation (by your foot) and the spindle, along with the battery carrier, spins inside the pedal. In order for this to happen, the pivot point between the metal end cap and the battery carrier has to be very low friction and perfectly centered on the end cap or it is going to wobble as the pedal spins. I am quite convinced that this is the source of the large amount of fretting that is seen in some people's pedals (including in the Garmin battery replacement guidance suggesting baby oil).

In your case, you have shown an extreme example of the problem. Not only is the printed circuit board piece that screws to the spindle bearing nut a little off center (as I postulated above and in the previous thread that I started), but it is so off-axis that it is actually dragging on the pedal body as it rotates. The fact that you note an increased "freeness" in the rotation with it removed is a very important observation. Keep in mind that this little circuit board that is screwed to the spindle provides the centering for the battery holder and if it is that far off center it is going to cause the battery holder to be mis-centered on the metal cap as it spins against the cap. In your case, the constant contact between the PCB component and the pedal body only adds to the problem.

So, I believe the problem is two-fold: electrical contact design as well as the mechanical design of the spinning battery holder. They of course are related and add to create the entire problem observed.

Here's a link to my first observation some time back: https://forums.garmin.com/forum/into-sports/cycling/vector-3/1338942-pedal-design-short-support-axle-and-spinning-battery-holder

Another thing I didn't mention was that this gap is slightly bigger on one side and smaller on another side. Let's say 0.25mm on one side and 0.27mm on the other. This means that the spindle inside is indeed off-centre and you can actually feel that after screwing the contact board. As it rubs on the casing, the "added" friction is not uniform but varies as you turn the pedal. Basically, this is just bad manufacturing.

Now, why right pedal? Well, perhaps (and this is only my guess) the "lefties" are manufactured in the same factory as the "3S's", due to the large amount. And the "righties" are manufactured elsewhere (and/or using lower QA) as the quantity of them is less.
Or it's just a crazy coincidence.

Now, why right pedal? Well, perhaps (and this is only my guess) the "lefties" are manufactured in the same factory as the "3S's", due to the large amount. And the "righties" are manufactured elsewhere (and/or using lower QA) as the quantity of them is less.
Or it's just a crazy coincidence.

I am another one of the Garmin beta testers for the Vector 3 pedals who paid over $1000 to be involved...and I also owned an Edge 510 so to be a full tester I paid extra to upgrade to the 1030 so I could see the Right Pedal Sensor Missing error properly!!

I noticed this gap on my pedals however it is on the left pedal not right. My left pedal also didn't spin as freely as the right side. I am waiting for my new set to arrive.

I

One side note here; funny some are experiencing less problems with beta 3.44...? How come this, if it's primarily a hardware issue? Could it be some more filtering of data?

Its actually not funny , this soft must be filtering data, hardware cannot be fixed with new software. I am glad that "cork fix works with my pedals" , now I am waiting for new replacement with new hardware. I ll stay with 3.30 soft and I will never upgrade because of that.

A short clip showing how tight the left hand pedal is.

https://youtu.be/KbcgmKrubw8

A short clip showing how tight the left hand pedal is.

https://youtu.be/KbcgmKrubw8

Wow, my V3s don't even spin that well! In fact, they barely spin at all; I can rotate either my left or right pedal to nearly any angle and the friction is enough that they'll just stay in that position (there's no visible gap on the inside of the spindle like the OP's spotted though). If I try giving them a good spin, I'll not get more than 1/3 - 1/2 turn out of either (like your left one). This makes clipping in a tedious process as I have to look at the pedals every time as I've now idea at what angle each one will be presenting itself.

I ought to try removing the end caps and seeing how/if they spin then, but as I've not had any drop-outs or spikes for the last few rides, I don't want to disturb anything!

Neil

I ought to try removing the end caps and seeing how/if they spin then, but as I've not had any drop-outs or spikes for the last few rides, I don't want to disturb anything!

Neil

If you do dare to experiment, you have to not only unscrew the end cap (4mm hex key), but also to remove the contact board (2x small Philips screws) as that is the thing that causes friction.

Hi all,
I am suffering from the "right pedal disconnecting" issue as well as "right pedal doesn't rotate freely". Yesterday night I've found the reason. Now I don't know if it is only applicable to me, but let me share my 2 cents.

So, my right pedal has a small gap between the black housing and the "metallic base" (I do not know the technical term), see photo.
This means that all the insides of the pedal are shifted by roughly 1/4mm (gap width). And this means two things:

The right pedal is missing started after software upgrade to the most recent one of stable in pedal. In my case I observed that I got right pedal disconnected message when I stop for a while during my ride. Probably in that case I do not release my right leg so it may disconnect the battery? Then when I start pedaling everything is back (I can see left and right power immediately).
Also I observed the changing of the PCO numbers in case of right pedal showing larger range then left one. Probably this gap can cause this? Do you have difference between right and left leg PCO numbers (dispersion)?