Took the pedals on a first ride today. Wattage seems accurate and smooth, and compared nicely to the G3 I was also running. The problem is that I noticed the pedals were really tight right out of the box. In other words, if you try to spin the pedal, it only rotates about a quarter turn. After a two hour ride it didn't seem any different. I spoke to Garmin and they sent me the manual which explained in detail how to take them apart. I dismantled each pedal and upon inspection of the spindle, it seemed like there is excessive friction against the internal bearing. I re-assembled them and torqued the left pedal to 6.5 instead of 7 pounds as recommended ...the right I had to estimate as it is reverse threaded. The whole process takes a little over 10 minutes a pedal. The end result is that they now rotate about a half a turn if I try to spin them. It is an improvement, but it really seems like they are too tight, and possibly a waste of watts. I have never ridden with a pedal that didn't spin like a top. ciq.forums.garmin.com/.../1267681.png
Garmin was great and responsive in getting me a new set. They are looser than the originals, and don't get stuck upside down, however, they are certainly tight. After around 700 miles, they still don't spin. I haven't figured out how to test them yet, but my guess is that they have to be costing a few watts each. If I spin them with my finger at 80 rpms I feel constant resistance due to the drag of the seals.
Garmin was great and responsive in getting me a new set. They are looser than the originals, and don't get stuck upside down, however, they are certainly tight. After around 700 miles, they still don't spin. I haven't figured out how to test them yet, but my guess is that they have to be costing a few watts each. If I spin them with my finger at 80 rpms I feel constant resistance due to the drag of the seals.
Didn't you read Garmin's explanation to you? Or can't you understand it?
Static friction is relevant at initial rotation...not at 80 rpm...hence "static". There is noticeable drag at 80rpm on a weighted pedal. Do you own these chipomarc? Did you test them? Believe me, I am hoping I am wrong, but I don't think I can be convinced until I see a bench test.
Based on (many) comparative power measurements it is not apparent that the pedal drag incurs any significant penalty. This example plot was part of a data set I collected using a Vector 3 set and a second (respected) crank spider based power meter. The pedals I was using for this set do not spin but they do droop heel-down, slowly.ciq.forums.garmin.com/.../1431106.png
if the vector pedals are the red line, i would say that it does show that they are losing a few watts. Its hard to tell without some more precise calibration and testing procedures but it does seem that the blue line is consistently showing a few watts less than the red line. Since one is on the crank and the other is a pedal, this would suggest that there are some losses between the pedal body and crank arm. Of course there is always going to be some losses but it would be nice to be able to quantify this loss between the vector 3's and maybe a standard pedal set.
I just got mine V3. Replaced my old Vector 2 and this new Vector 3 gets stuck at whatever position I put them.... VERY different from the Vector 2 which spins freely... I DO suspect there will be a cost to be paid in Watts..... it's Impossible to be zero !
The bearing seals in Vector 3, to ensure water resistance, do create the feeling of more pedal stiffness when moved by hand. The drag is minimal when moving and causes no significant penalty in wattage while riding. The consequential power loss is less than a ¼ watt total.
If you look at the video of Ray attaching the pedals to a bike, his pedals spin much easier than mine do. His rotate freely to a heel down position, whereas mine stay in the orientation they're put. youtu.be/1IPxtMgRmwE
