Garmin Edge 520 Basic Setup and Tips

For the Di2 integration you will need the Shimano D-Fly ANT component if you do not already have it. (SM-EWW01)

Thanks Alan, I didn't know that. Do you know if it's worth it? I can live without knowing what gear I'm in! Are there are any other functions that make it worth the money?

The Di2 integration provides status on the gear you are in and writes each gear change event in to the activity for file for post ride use. It provides information on the Di2 battery status and it enables the hidden buttons that are on top of the Di2 shifters under the hood covers so that you can use them like a remote to switch between training pages on the Edge.

Thanks Alan, I didn't know that. Do you know if it's worth it? I can live without knowing what gear I'm in! Are there are any other functions that make it worth the money?

The Di2 D-fly is totally worth it, though it should probably come standard with Di2. In addition to everything that AMAWEATHERALL had mentioned, having the D-fly allows you to display the rear derailleur adjustment mode. Di2 allows you to make small adjustments (i believe for a total of 33 steps) to the rear derailleur, to shift it inward or outward. Normally, once you get it set up in the beginning, you won't have to touch it again. However, i found out the width of the free hub on my Zipp 202 wheel is significantly different than the width of the free hub on my Wahoo Kickr indoor trainer. When i move my bike from the Zipp 202 wheel to the trainer, i need to move the RD inward by 14 steps.



To turn on the Di2 rear derailleur adjustment mode, the RD has to be first shifted to the 5th largest cog. Without the D-fly to tell you what gear you are in, you are just guessing what gear the Di2 thinks it's in because even though the RD is physically in the 5th largest cog, Di2 may think it's in the 4th or the 6th largest cog. Once the Di2 thinks it's in the 5th largest cog, you press and hold the button on the Di2 junction port to enable the Di2 rear derailleur adjustment mode. As soon as Di2 is placed in this mode, a compatible bike computer (like the 510, 520 and 1000) will pop up a Di2 Adjustment Mode screen, indicating the current position of the rear derailleur. I swap my bike between the rear wheel and the trainer at least twice a week so i know exactly where to adjust the RD, without having to spend time to spin crank arm to listen for clicking noise and then adjust accordingly each and every time.

i found out the width of the free hub on my Zipp 202 wheel is significantly different than the width of the free hub on my Wahoo Kickr indoor trainer. When i move my bike from the Zipp 202 wheel to the trainer, i need to move the RD inward by 14 steps.

Rather than re-trim when swapping back and forth, why not simplify things and get some American Classic or similar .5mm cassette spacers that can be installed on the freehub before the cassette to eliminate such spacing issues?

Rather than re-trim when swapping back and forth, why not simplify things and get some American Classic or similar .5mm cassette spacers that can be installed on the freehub before the cassette to eliminate such spacing issues?

A few months ago, i tried to insert a spacer of about 0.5mm on the free hub before the cassette on the Wahoo Kickr however there was not enough thread to even tighten the lock ring. When i did that a few months ago, i only had two 11-speed hubs (one on the Zipp 202 and one on the Kickr) to compare so i assumed the hub on the Zipp 202 was "out of spec" for a 11-speed hub. Just now, i looked at 11-speed Mavic hub on my wife's bike and it's actually comparable with the 11-speed hub on the Zipp 202. So now, i think it's the hub on the Kickr that is out of spec. Unfortunately, i think the only way to fix this is to replace the nut on the Kickr hub with a thinner one.

If you look at the attached photo of the Kickr hub, it sticks out by 3 mm, which is about 2 mm more than the Zipp and Mavic hubs.

Rather than re-trim when swapping back and forth, why not simplify things and get some American Classic or similar .5mm cassette spacers that can be installed on the freehub before the cassette to eliminate such spacing issues?

This is Wahoo's response on my suggestion in using a thinner locknut:

Based on your description, the hub spacing on the Zipp and Mavic hub are different. Mavic hubs are known to be wider than most hubs, thus requiring additional spacers for the cassette. As a result of the different spacing between the hubs and the KICKR, you will need adjust the rear derailleur alignment to achieve smooth drivetrain operation.

I do not recommend changing the 17mm locknut on the KICKR. Changing this part will result in changing the KICKR's hub width, which could result in the improper alignment of your bikes and possibly frame damage or the frame not being properly secured on the KICKR.