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Tacx NEO Bike Smart Noise Fixed

fcris
over 3 years ago

I've had a coupla noises coming from the NEO Bike Smart over the past year or so. One was easy and required changing the stock belt. The other was difficult to diagnose.

It was a fairly subtle clunking noise that would only occur at lower wattage, and mostly after the bike warmed up. It can be identified by back pedaling and making the same noise.

The solution was to dissemble the idler pully (bearings and sleeve) and use Locktite threadlock on ALL the parts. MAKE SURE THE SLEEVE POSITION IS IN THE CORRECT ORIENTATION AND LOCATION BEFORE LOCKTITE SETS. Wait a few hours before reinstalling.

When I get time, I plan to make a metal pully assembly to replace the cheezy plastic one. There's a lot of pressure on this idler pully.

There's nothing fun about riding a trainer, but when you have to ride one, this trainer is the best!  

  • 0 over 3 years ago

    I have a noise too making sometimes klak klak klak when pedaling  could you send me a photo what you dissembled 

    ill try to find out the source but bike is new so i dont think its from the belt

  • 0 over 3 years ago

    can you send more information about this fix? i think i have the same issue. 

  • 0 over 3 years ago

    I also have a clinking/donking sound that is a bit annoying. It seems to be on the upstroke on my right pedal. It’s almost like a band isn’t slack enough then becomes slack. I can replicate it I think if I pedal the pedal around with my hand an push diagonally inwards on the pedal/shaft. Any ideas anyone?!

  • 0 over 3 years ago in reply to 3193267

    My crankset was loose from the factory. It didn't make a noise though.

    Easy to check.

  • 0 over 2 years ago in reply to 3193267

    I have the same issue! I know this is 1 year ago since you posted. But I am trying to fix this right pedal clicking sound on every upstroke. Have you fixed it? It's triggering my OCD like mad haha

  • 0 over 1 year ago in reply to 8125793

    I had a knocking a bit like that and all this needed was to tighten the crank arm on the left (only side with a bolt).

  • 0 over 1 year ago

    Got round to trying this fix today and it seems to have worked. Time will tell. Many thanksThumbsup

  • 0 8 months ago

    My Bike Noise Troubleshooting Guide

    In my extensive experience with this bike, I’ve encountered some issues related to factory assembly quality and product engineering design. These issues manifest as noticeable metal-to-metal friction points. Here are the key points to address:

    1. Detecting Sources of Noise:

      • Noise can be frustrating, but it’s also an opportunity for discovery. Treat it as an iterative journey to identify all possible sources.
      • By paying attention to specific areas where metal components meet, you can pinpoint trouble spots.

    2. Left Bottom Bracket Bearings:

      • Be aware that the left bottom bracket bearings require periodic replacement. They tend to rust due to sweat exposure.
      • I consider this a normal wear-and-tear issue. In my case, they lasted about a year.
      • For replacement, I recommend the Shimano Deore BB-MT501 (Hollowtech II) bottom bracket. It strikes a good balance between quality and cost, especially for a static bike.
      • Worn or damaged bearings lead to increased resistance and attrition (though this doesn’t directly impact power readings).
      • Rolling noise can also result from poor bearing condition.

    3. Greasing metal-to-metal contact points:

      • My approach to solving noise problems involves disassembling and greasing key components:
        • Bottom bracket to frame screw
        • Right “chainstay” to bottom bracket contact points (including the steel snap ring)
        • Right “chainstay” to free hub contact junction
        • Frame to the rear flying wheel union (right side)
        • Screws and washers
      • Be cautious not to contaminate the belt with grease during this process.