Considering move from Stages LR to Rally XC200

I did damage my right pedal when hitting a rock. That part sticking out on the lower front simply broke. I had to get a new pedal body.
When I swap the pedals between bikes, I do torque them well, tests showed, you should do that. So get a decent pedal wrench, which does not slip off or damage the spindle somehow.
Why would you take them off between rides? I only remove them when I need them on another bike. But since the damage with a rock, I won't mount them on my enduro bike anytime soon. So it's between my XC fully and my E-Gravel. On my CX I still have my Stages LR, upgraded a Gen 1 L with a Gen 3 R. I'm not sure about comparing those with the Rally, it seems, on the Stages LR I do ride more balanced. Since I didn't use the CX very often in the past, I don't have much data to compare.  And I don't have two garmin head units to ride with both at the same time.

These pedals are REALLY big for SPD mountain type.  I'll have to be careful with my full suspension as it's proned to pedal strikes already.  I'm surprised you broke the pedal body - I have shimano pedals that I've struck countless rocks over the past 10 years and they still work great.  I'll just be weary (I mostly do XC with occasional full mountain.   No enduro or crazy jumping).  

I was always so nervous after reading the issues of shimano's right-side road power meters.  But for the small testing I did with the Rally and Stages pedals they always stayed within a few watts of each other.  The garmins seemed a little more consistent on the L/R balance, but the stages didn't seem to fluctuate too much from it.  I wasn't pushing more than a couple hundred watts though, nor was I out of saddle.

Perhaps my stages were doing well enough.  But I'll finally not be locked into certain cranksets.  I can finally put some lower geared cranks on my gravel bike and use the Rally for power....and dual side on the mountain bike.  It seems like a better option to me, so long as they hold up.  :-)  Plus they've GOT to be more water resistant than the stages.

I was always so nervous after reading the issues of shimano's right-side road power meters.  But for the small testing I did with the Rally and Stages pedals they always stayed within a few watts of each other.

I had the same worry but it turns out it's not an issue for pedal power meters. The problem is with crank arm power meters on those Shimano cranks. The design of the crank arm apparently makes it difficult to locate the strain gauges in a spot where they will get consistent readings in all situations, and that's what's causing all the problems, mainly on the right side. The pedals are located out at the tip of the arm where they aren't affected by that issue, so pedal power meters are ok.

the pedals show the power too high for a while before they "set". Also the torque you tighten them with matters a lot, there are too many reports of incorrect values and the subset of users who resolved the issue say they tightened them both to the 34Nm as described in the manual. I like them a lot from an ease of use perspective, but am expecting my torque wrench any day now to "fix" the reading and I need to check via a static torque test (the value shown during the calibration process, https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=AVZeQisZvi3oBYZUUZdPV6). So all in all, they are like chain lenght and derailleur position on Sram Eagle 12s, fiddly on multiple details to give you a great performance.