cadence sensor 2 connection issues

I am having this same issue with my Cadence Sensor 2 while the HRM and Speed Sensor 2 function properly. Their QA/QC needs review!

Same issue here. Speed works but can't find the cadence anywhere or via any app. Using iPhone XR. Would be interesting if Garmin would provide an answer. I saw people also have problems after using newer platforms or software update from Apple. If does would be the reason and Garmin would react as such, than at least there is an answer. Now I am only going nuts, while previously was very happy with Garmin.

I'd love to get some pictures of the Cadence Sensor 2 for a clearer reference, but I'm lazy especially it's cumbersome to take it apart and risk having it conk out again.  I'll deal with it again when it's time to replace the battery.  Like many of you, I got the Speed/Cadence II sensors combo last May, and so excited to use it.  Had no problem with the speed sensor.  The cadence sensor is the one that made me think that I got a defective unit.  No matter how I tried finagling, tweedling, nudging, you name it, it just won't come alive!  I nearly threw it due to frustration!  Was about to return it to the seller (thankfully it still has a stellar return policy) when I told myself that since this is going back, maybe I'll just tinker with it some more.

What I found out was that the flimsy metal connectors on both the cap and the body weren't touching.  They have to be perfectly aligned so that when the cap is finally twisted to lock it, those metals would touch.  Take your time and eyeball them.  The metal connector on the cap has a part that is a tad longer than the rest.  That's the one that needs to touch the metal located on the body.  If it's bent then gently bring it back up.  Hope it works for you too!

>What I found out was that the flimsy metal connectors on both the cap and the body weren't touching.

+1  Sir, You're correct. I had to bend the tab on the cap a bit, but it worked.

Also, Garmin support suggested that I insert the battery backwards for 30-seconds, and return it to its proper polarity. With the tab bent into position to initiate continuity it worked; I got the Green LED to blink, and my Edge 1000 sees it now!

FWIW, the design is poor, i.e., the device is too exposed and sensitive during battery replacement.

I really appreciate the forum's participant's help!

Many thanks for the suggestion. Seems very logical and I will try it this this afternoon. Hopefully it will finally work, which will make me very happy. Thanks!