Exercise load on rock climbing

Hi All,

Does someone know of exercise load on rock/indoor climbing is calculated only based on %MaxHR?

Because several studies show if you climb at i.e. 80%MaxHR, the %Vo2Max is around 50% instead of near to 100.

This is a exceptional behavior which has been documented for rock climbing, probably related on isomeric tension and "fear pf falling"

However in the end this means that if you rely on your HR, you might overestimate your efforts by 100%!

Ot would be great to know if garmin is taking this info account on their calculation.

0 trux over 2 years ago

Silicium said:
Does someone know of exercise load on rock/indoor climbing is calculated only based on %MaxHR?

I doubt that Garmin distinguishes much between diverse disciplines when calculating the EL, but you can perhaps tell us better - try comparing your climbing workouts with workouts of another type where the duration and the HR levels were similar, and if the difference is really near to 50%, then you should detect it easily.

If you find it is indeed not the case, you could suggest it to Garmin to use the results of the study you mentioned, through the form at: Share Ideas | Garmin

0 Bachu 1 day ago

Exercise load and calculations in climbing are really useless. I do heavy boulder training twice a week, and for Garmin is almost as if Im relaxed laying in bed. Also when I go rock climbing I see something similar, I stopped using it for that purpose directly. It´s incredible that this was sold as a feature... But also, this is I have an Instinct, that´s supposed to be an expedition smartwatch, but during 10 day expedition in the middle of the mountain, I cant sync between phone and smart watch... expedition they say. Garmin lost its focus completelty and is usefull for runners... Try getting a good exercise routine, and the system has so little and bad exercises, that it´s impossible to do something good. Halo with kettle for example, si not in the list, and the exercise list is not customizable. Im hating garmin since I have it. My next one, will be a sunnto.