Charging Contacts Damaged / Pitted (Easy Fix)

This post is for everyone who has had issues with their charging contacts becoming pitted to the point of charging not being able to work anymore. I have found it very frustrating that I spend $800 on a watch and after a couple years, I can no longer use it because it won’t charge anymore. If you ask me, a       watch that expensive should last much longer. In my case, both times it has been a Tactix Charlie, but there’s no forum for that wearable and the Fenix 5 series has the same charging contacts, so that’s why I’m posting here. After my first Charlie stopped working after about 2 years and had the very pitted charging contacts, I paid Garmin $200 for a refurbished replacement. I was hoping the issue was just a one-time thing. But sure enough, after another 2 years with the replacement, it’s happening again. Take note that I religiously followed Garmin’s cleaning and charging instructions (cleaning contacts with Isopropanol after any sweating sessions, before charging, and ensuring the contacts were completely dry before beginning to charge). I believe the issue lies with the charger’s pins wearing the wearable’s contacts off over time. This is a huge design flaw (and perhaps on purpose); I would much rather the charging cable’s contacts be designed with much less wear resistant contacts since the charging cable is much cheaper to replace of course. I refuse to pay Garmin for another replacement, so I found a quick easy fix that hopefully a ton of people can find useful so that your Garmin wearables can last years longer, rather than having to buy a new one every couple years as Garmin would like. 

This fix does require some skill with a soldering iron, but once the pitting in the charging contacts begin, you can fill the pits with a solder bead and then they’ll be as good as new. I found it easiest to cut a tiny piece of solder off the roll of solder and place the tiny piece on the pit. Then use a very fine point soldering iron to melt the solder into the pit.

  • Interesting. But don't you have to heat up the pins so that they will absorb the solder? Just wondering if that damages anything. 

  • BLUF: No damage will occur as long as you're careful when heating up the pins.

    Details: Yes, you have to heat up the pins and subsequently, the plastic around the pins will heat up and soften. Therefore, you need to make sure you're careful to not transfer too much heat for too long into each pin, otherwise the plastic will melt and flow into the watch. If you're careful this should not happen; the plastic should soften locally (not the full thickness) when each pin is heated and once you're done, the plastic will harden again. Now, this is all assuming the plastic around the pins is a thermoplastic. If it's a thermoset, then you won't have to worry about the plastic melting, but instead it'll degrade/char/burn. When I was soldering, it seemed like the plastic was a thermoplastic. Hope this answers your question!

  • Hi! I had the same problem with my 5X 2 years ago and fix it (stop corrosion) by rubbing hard the watch and cable contacts too, with a dry soft toothbrush every time before charging. After a bike run or gym, I ever wash the 5x in tap water using a toothbrush, and after that, I carefully dry it.

  • I suspected this would fix mine but I searched if someone did it before, don't know why this has so low likes, it's brilliant and it took 5 minutes, just removing the rust with some flux restored it but I left a small bead.

  • it's brilliant and it took 5 minutes
    not transfer too much heat for too long into each pin, otherwise the plastic will melt

    ...and the solder on the other side of the pins inside the case melts and the solder connection to the motherboard is lost. Then the watch would have to be opened.

  • Wow…no wonder engineers we think alike!! I started to have the charging issue and I noticed the pins were all corroded. My first thought was to do this exact thing! I was not sure if it was feasible, so started to look in the forum and lo and behold!! I’m either buying a soldering iron and try it myself (never used one before) or just take it to a phone repair place and have them do it. Thanks for posting!!

  • I’m either buying a soldering iron and try it myself (never used one before) or just take it to a phone repair place and have them do it. Thanks for posting!!

    If you have never soldered before, please have someone with experience do it for you.

    That some people post they can do it in 5 minutes does not prove it is a simple fix. 

    I'm all for DIY repairs and do them myself but only when I am sure my chance of success is very high, and I have a plan B in case it fails.

    It would be nice if someone could post their long term results (months) with this fix.

    And you can always contact Garmin support to ask advice.

  • Renneo, you're welcome, I'm happy you were able to find the post! To piggyback off of what Data said (which I agree with everything, thanks for the input Data!), if you have never soldered before and are interested in learning, buy a breadboard or take a PCB from a defective or old device you have that you won't use anymore and practice soldering on them first before you go right to trying this fix on your expensive watch. Watch some YouTube videos on soldering and practice different soldering techniques until you're confident in your abilities. Then, if you chose to try this fix, make sure you have a very fine soldering tip, small diameter rosin core solder (I used 1/32"), and ensure you use a high temp such as around 800 degrees Fahrenheit to quickly heat up the contacts/pins to melt the solder; my theory is that if you use too low of a temperature, it might take too long to melt the solder causing too much heat to transfer deeper into the plastic surroundings, and once the full thickness of the plastic heats up enough (perhaps to its glass transition temperature, Tg) issues could start to arise due to noticeable deformation in the plastic (which could indicate the plastic started to flow into the watch itself, or the contacts/pins shift within the plastic, or even worse, a void is created in the plastic allowing ingress of water); whereas, if you heat up the contacts/pins quickly by using a high temperature on the soldering iron, the plastic around the contacts/pins may breach the Tg, but only a very localized region of the plastic will breach the Tg since the plastic has a much lower thermal conductivity coefficient than the contacts/pins.

    As for long term results, it has been over a year since I applied this fix and my contacts/pins are still in great condition. The solder has indented slightly from the charger pins pressing into them repeatedly, but they still work great! I'll have to take a picture and post here when I get home. 

    As for Garmin support, if they provide you with any helpful information, I'd be interested to know. The only thing they told me when I reached out, is that I could send it in for repair for free if it was within its one year warranty period (which mine was not) or pay a $200 repair fee.

    Good luck!