• State Not Answered
  • Replies 24 replies
  • Subscribers 0 subscribers
  • Views 8459 views
  • Users 0 members are here
Options
Related

Prepping for a 60k trail race and advice for an activity setup

Former Member
Former Member over 7 years ago
Just upgraded from a Forerunner 210 to a Fenix 5x. Talk about worlds apart. I bought the watch specifically because I'm doing The Grand Traverse (60k trail race) this September. From what I can figure out the maximum time for the race is 12 or 13 hours. I should be well under that, but you never know.

I really like being able to track all different activities on one device. I have noticed that there about 1001 different ways to configure any given activity. I've done some Googling and really haven't found anything that talk about tracking options on battery life. I get that turning off the 'activity metric' will help from an every day stand point. I'm really focus on getting the most battery for my buck when in an activity.

I'm using my current Trial Run activity as a base line.
  • Data Screens - The stock ones plus two custom
  • Alerts - Distance 2.5mi / Time 45min
  • Metronome - off
  • Maps - didn't change / use sys setting - yes
  • Routing - didn't change
  • Auto Lab - 1mi
  • Auto Pause - off
  • Auto Climb - off
  • 3D Speed/Distance - off
  • Lap Key - off
  • Auto Scroll - off
  • Segment Alerts - on - no clue what this does
  • GPS - Normal
  • Power Save Timeout - Normal
  • Background/Accent Color - didn't change

My in activity backlight settings are:
  • Keys - On
  • Alerts - On
  • Gesture - Off
  • Timeout - 8 seconds
  • Brightness - 50%

Here goes with the questions .....

Will copying an activity still allow Garmin Connect to track it correctly. For example: if I copy 'Trail Run' to 'Trail Race' will it show up correctly in the Garmin ecosystem?

I don't really train to my heart rate, but its nice to know what it is. I do you the daily heart rate and heart rate during my activities. I was thinking of turning off for the race. How much does turning off the HR really buy you?

I've been putzing with the Courses function and its pretty nice. I can see the elevations profile and progress. This is really nice on hill repeats where I would normally loose count. The ETA is normally pretty close. The turn notification is nice when I'm not 100% with a new route. Overall its pretty darn cool. If I'm already using the GPS tracking, how much of a battery penalty does adding course navigation have?

I'm planning to leave my GPS setting set to Normal for the race because I got a GPS for ... well ... the GPS. I don't think GLONAS would really help that much on a trail race going over high alpine terrain. The manual doesn't explain what UltraTrac is, but I assume its a lower sampling rate and there for less accurate. Does this sound reasonable?

What other settings can I look at that may impact battery life?
  • 0 over 7 years ago
    I would change two things from your setup

    1. Auto Lap Off - auto lapping is less interesting on a trail race as there is so much pace variation based on terrain. With it off you can hit the lap button to mark entry and exit of each check-point and then add data fields for lap distance, lap ascent and lap descent
    2. When I am following a course an have marginal battery I tend to revert to watch-face unless I need any of data screens - it is easy to toggle into and out of the activity
  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 7 years ago
    I follow what you are saying, but I'm not finding any 'compass' option on my watch. Under the Map settings I did find that option to use Track Up or North. Is this the option you are referring to?


    The compass setting is changed in compas/ABC widget or under: settings - sensors - compass - mode. Here you can choose to turn off the magnetic compass from automode. Now it only uses GPS for determining direction.

    I use this all the time. Wish there was a hotkey for this... If you listen Garmin, so please...:-)

    best regards
    Stig Erik
  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 7 years ago
    The compass setting is changed in compas/ABC widget or under: settings - sensors - compass - mode. Here you can choose to turn off the magnetic compass from automode. Now it only uses GPS for determining direction.

    I use this all the time. Wish there was a hotkey for this... If you listen Garmin, so please...:-)

    best regards
    Stig Erik


    I was able to find the setting. Thanks for the instructions.

    What does the 'On' options do? It seems kind of redundant.
  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 7 years ago
    ON: Sets the compass to use electronic-sensor data only.
    Auto: a combination of GPS and electronic-sensor data when moving (I think above 3km/h the GPS is used),
    Off: GPS data only.

    Auto is not good when going uphill or places where GPS is a little poor.
    When I go skimo in the winter the GPS detects 0km/h speed when I use my skipole and up to 6km/h when in motion. Resulting in a very fluctuating compass/navigating. Same goes for the running uphill when I use my arms to push my legs uphill.


    best regards
  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 7 years ago
    I've spent the last few hours of my life fiddling with the activity settings and I have to say ..... Why is the heck didn't Garmin let you do this via the Connect phone app, Express or Connect on the computer .... ok rant over.

    First I removed most of my IQ data fields and replaced them with the stock custom data fields. I really wish there was a 5 field option ... meh. That made a noticeable difference how fast the Activities screen loaded. My Trail Run and Hiking activity only have one IQ data field a piece. The Trail Run one is just for comparison and will most likely be removed. It really is crazy how much faster the screen loads.

    I changed the backlight settings to be less aggressive and during an activity only come on after sunset.

    I only have GLONAS on my Run activity. For some reason there is a tree lined and building lined street that causes my pace to drop to 15min/miles. With GLONAS my pace still takes a hit but its not as bad.

    I didn't change my compass settings but will keep that in mind as I use the watch.

    I also made sure the broadcast HR was off.

    I left the notification settings as is because during my case I'll disconnect the watch from my phone.

    I also don't use WI-FI. That is off all the time.

    Now its time to get some runs in :D
  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 7 years ago
    I did a 2:40 minute trail run on Sunday and I'm pressed with the changes. I would put my battery usage at 15% for 3 hours ... ish. I got several txt messages (around 12), one storm alert, lap stats every mile, milage alarm very 2.5 miles, time alarm every 45 minute, checked the map twice and got a phone call alert. I'm very pleased by those numbers. I also noticed a large increase in battery life with normal usage (none activity modes).
  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 7 years ago
    It would appear that all my good work went out the window with firmware 9.20, but I'm still testing.

    I do have a questions on the GPS accuracy. I see a lot of people reference 1 second sampling. 1 second seems pretty straight forward. Every second the watch gets a GPS fix and records it. Smart is a relative term, to say the least, but I'm guessing the watch tries to back off on the GPS samples to save battery life.

    The reason I'm asking is I've noticed by GPX tracks have a lot of variance. They will often tend to wonder. I was using GPSies to view the GPX file. On Garmin Connect this is not very evident, but I assume Garmin is filtering it out and making everything look pretty. I'm also having random pace issues with the watch.

    What can I expect from 1 second vs Smart GPS sampling (data recording)?

    Will one or the other impact the battery life significantly?
  • 0 over 7 years ago
    Smart is a relative term, to say the least, but I'm guessing the watch tries to back off on the GPS samples to save battery life.


    The only purpose of smart recording is to save storage space. It made sense years ago, when storage space in wearable devices was very limited and wireless data transfer rates were very slow. There is very little reason to use smart recording today. You won't see any significant difference in terms of power consumption.
  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 7 years ago
    The only purpose of smart recording is to save storage space. It made sense years ago, when storage space in wearable devices was very limited and wireless data transfer rates were very slow. There is very little reason to use smart recording today. You won't see any significant difference in terms of power consumption.


    Thanks ... updating the setting now :D
  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 7 years ago
    I did a 14.3mi trail run in 3:05. I was charing the watch in my car and it at 100% when I started the run. I did use nav for the entire run. It was an out and back with only few alerts. I used 1 second GPS sampling. I also got a few txt message alerts. I used about 16% of the battery. The run was mostly tree covered and around 10k feet.

    My pace seemed to be more consistent with the 1 second sampling, but it still bounced around. I would be doing 10min/mile, then it would go up to 12 and then back to 10. It was kind of annoying, but better than my last long run on firmware 8.00.