Set speed manually when you have a speed sensor mounted. Since the auto setting requires a good GPS signal to work out the wheel size, it's prone to inaccuracy. Also make sure your magnet (if it a sensor with a magnet) is properly positioned.
Have a look at your speed and candence graphs
I’d like to bet there’s loads of drop outs which would explain your short reported distance
my previous F5 was atrocious with my speed and cadence sensor but the replacement I have is pretty good
questioning the same with self having the following equipment to share on 3 bikes:
Kinetic Kurt stationary trainer with integral power and speed sensors
Garmin Fenix 5 watch
Garmin 1030 Edge Plus
2 sets of Garmin sensors (speed + cadence)
So how does it play out in my stable? what is my best use of sensors?
Stationary trainer - its integral power and speed sensors are sufficient and cadence not much of a concern as I ride consistently at 90rpm over the years.
A-bike (Pinarello FP Quattro) - (speed + cadence) sensors paired to Fenix 5 or Garmin Edge. Rational = nbr 1 ride, most use, ground based speed signal delay less than that of space (SAT) based speed computation & cadence always important for road hammering
B-bike (rain bike, DEAN Colonel) - cadence sensor paired to Fenix 5 or Garmin Edge. Rational = cadence on road bike more important than on MTB and can live with space based speed data from Fenix or Edge in suburban environment for the infrequently ridden rain bike
MTB (ORBEA OCCAM) - speed sensor paired to Fenix 5 or Garmin Edge. Rational = SAT based speed data signals often interrupted in heavy PacNW forests or when behind/under large boulders or steep terrain => therefore SAT speed data can be intermittent... AND cadence not so important on MTB... in fact, don't tell anyone I said this but I sometimes encounter terrain in the woods that forces me to get off the bike and walk... and its probably not even that steep. geezus, can't believe I just admitted that. :)