Battery door thread

Hello, I am concerned about the plastic thread on the left pedal battery door of my Garmin Vector 3
The plastic thread appears to be slowly stripping, and it is getting noticeably tougher to screw the battery door on; the yellow O-Ring now gets squished up when I tighten the door.
I've had these pedals for over a year now, and they've worked flawlessly - although i've just today had a ride with drop-outs and power spikes (https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/4829901273), the first time I've had this.
Just replaced the battery doors and internals with the new kit (not needed it previously), so we'll see if that helps, but my concern with the thread remains. 
What should I do here?
Thanks for any help
Josh 
  • If the threads get stripped out then it is likely that you will need to replace the pedal body and the battery door.  You can order the pedal body and new battery door directly from Garmin.

    Left pedal body: https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/pn/010-12757-01
    Battery door is in the Small Parts kit: https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/pn/S00-01030-00

    There are two options for the Right pedal depending on if you have a Vector 3 (dual sensor) or Vector 3s (left only)

    Vector 3 right pedal body (need small parts kit above also): https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/pn/010-12757-00
    Vector 3s right pedal body (no battery compartment): https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/pn/010-12757-02

    The kits above will allow you to replace the damaged parts without having to completely replace the pedals.  The Vector 3 support page has a nice video about how to do the maintenance on the pedal.  When you have them apart, you can swap the old parts for the replacement as you are putting them back together.

  • Hello, thanks so much for replying and offering help

    Just swapping in a new left pedal body looks good to me. If I ordered the left-pedal body and switched the electronics in myself, I could send the damaged left pedal body away to Garmin to be inspected under warranty? 

    That way, I wouldn't lose any time with the power meter. 

  • For that you would need to contact Garmin support to see what they will do.  There is a link on the support page for each product.

  • already done so, thanks

    would be pretty alarming if they don't cover it under warranty

  • The design of this pedal body/ battery housing is hideous and notorious for failure. Mine stripped out as well,,, but wrapping the cover’s threads with plumber’s Teflon pipe tape will solve the issue if they didn’t cover it under warranty. This is begging for a class action suit. 

  • Same problem for me.  Contacted Garmin Support and was very pleased that Garmin covered the stripped out right pedal.  I've also found it very difficult to thread the battey door while the pedal is on the bike.  It does take a little more time, but I now remove the pedal from the bike to enusre that I can get the battery door started and I hand tighten until I'm sure the threads are correctly aligned.

  • This is a late follow to this thread. I also have stripped the thread on the left pedal, it does seem like a design flaw. I have also noticed the left pedal housing has a very small gap between the metal cap at the other end of the left pedal to the thread, and the pedal housing. I've changed batteries loads of times with no issues the only change I recently done was to fit the new caps and electronic connectorsI'm wondering if these are slightly longer causing and issue they only need to be a couple of mm longer?

  • I've had issues with my left pedal from day 1.  Well, the first time I changed batteries.  I don't think I over tightened the cap that first time, but after that, I really couldn't tighten it very hard without the thread skipping.  In 2020, when Garmin released "improved caps", the new caps I received seemed to help the situation.  However, as time went by it did worsen.  Recently it would pop over the thread.  Not come off, but loosen so that the battery connection wasn't good enough to keep the power up.  One of the suggestions above was to try plumbers tape.  I tried that, but I think I ended up with a similar situation to you that there didn't seem to be enough thread to grab. 

    I tried swapping the caps between the left and right, and it was definitely a problem with the left pedal. I rang Garmin support, just to seek advice as to whether buying the a "left Sensing Pedal body" was all I needed to fix this.  I figured a AU$149 wasn't cheap, but given how much I enjoy spending time on the bike, it was a relatively small investment if this would fix the issue.  The person I spoke to was very helpful, and said if I send them in, they could fix it for me, and it would cost a few dollars less then me buying it.  Also saves me the stress of swapping the electronics myself.  Just got a tracking notification this evening that it's about to be shipped, so I should have it early next week.

  • "new" pedals arrived today.  Not sure if these are refurbs, or what, but they look brand new to my untrained eye.  Best AU$143 (plus postage for the return) I've spent for a while.  Interestingly, the batteries that came with these are "OK".  Around 2.85V, so half discharged.  Perhaps these have been sitting on a shelf for a while?  Anyway, don't care, I'm putting these on tonight to give them a test ride tomorrow.

  • Just a terrible design that isn't fit for purpose on kit that costs nearly £1k. Totally unacceptable.