Edge 130 Cold Weather Performance

And did you check your actual new runtime yet? Would be interesting to know how many hours you get.

Hi Tom,
I used a 502530 form-factor lipo battery. 3.7V 370mAh (1.36Wh)
Ordered it here:
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/33022971789.html?spm=a219c.12010615.8148356.1.1d871321vHMXG6
(price has gone up slightly)
Must be available from other suppliers as well.

This battery is only a few mm's bigger in all directions than the original, but this doubles it's volume, and therefor it's capacity.

And the plot thickens.
Not only did Garmin use a battery one size smaller then what would actualy fit in the 130, they also used an even smaller battery then their own label states !
As we look at the label of the original battery, we read 1lCP4/20/28 suggesting this is a 40/20/28 battery.
If we look at hte back, we can read this is actually a 32/20/28 battery. That's 20% thinner, leaving us with 20% less capacity.
So, not only did they fitted a 100% smaller battery than what would actually fit, they even used a battery even 20% smaller than that !
(The battery itself states 0.7Wh, the label states 0.68Wh. Don't know what to believe)
To me, this explains all the runtime issues.
It's not the 130 hardware that is to blame (nor the software), it's the smaller batteries that Garmin used in the assembly!
(not sure how long this post will remain...)

No runtime check yet.
First I'll see if I can switch off the auto-shutdown and then leave it connected with my phone until the battery runs out of power.
This should give some indication.
After corona-lockdown, my physical condition is not good enough for a +8h ride, so actual testing in the field will be difficult for now.

Haha, true! Didn't even think about that...all the best for getting back into shape and thanks a lot for the infos.

Went on a short ride yesterday.

1h 50 min.

Left the 130 on after syncing until the batt.died.

Checked today, it logged another 12h 25min

Ant+ and BT on, GPS on.

(In total 14h 15 min.)

Avg temp 20°C

Note: The 130 was not charged before the ride and the test. It was fully charged last week after riding.

Noticed the battery gauge isn't keeping up with the new battery.
I think it is programmed with the characteristics of the original battery.
It drops bars rather quick, just as it did with the original battery.
But the 130 keeps going.
Only thing is you can't tell how much life there is left in your new battery.
It uses 3 bar's in the first 4 hours, after that, the 130 keeps going for hours on the last bar, and then probably some more hours on "empty".
Runtime test above showed it is capable of at least 14h, without being charged before testing (but fully charged about a week before the test).
But as I left it on overnight, I was'nt keeping an eye on the battery indicator.

Very nice explanation, thanks! 

Just finished my battery upgrade and its charging now. Already curious about the new runtime... 

Hi, thanks for all your helpful instructions!  I replaced the Garmin battery with a 502530.  When I was re-installing the circuit board i found that with the larger battery the small black foam block on the underside of the board was now flexing the board a bit after screwing it down.  This cause the right side buttons to not work so well.  I trimmed down the foam block by about half and it reinstalled without undue pressure or board flex and the buttons now work as before the battery upgrade.

Runtime, especially with some sensors connected, is indeed much better now.

Another tip: when i soldered in the new battery i used some thin heat shrink tubing.  I slid the tubing on the battery wire before soldering. Then slid the tubing over the solder joint.  Lacking a proper heat gun, i gently brushed the soldering iron tip along the shrink wrap to shrink it.  These two pics show the shrink wrap and the foam block (circled in yellow, on top of the wires where they attach to the board) before i trimmed it down.

Runtime is definitely better. Happy trails !

I deliberately did not use shrink tubing because it is less flexible.
Used some electrical tape instead, so the wires would stay pliable. 
But shrink tubing is better in terms of insulation.

Good tip about trimming down the foam.
(I just pushed the pcb down while tightening the screws)